KBSU took part in the discussion of the cultural code of the national ethnos
As part of the interaction with the State Hermitage Museum and the Russian Ethnographic Museum, the head of the Department of Ethnography of Eastern, South-Eastern and Central Europe of the Russian Ethnographic Museum, doctor of Cultural Studies, professor of the Department of History and Theory of Art of the St. Petersburg University of Technology and Design Natalia Kalashnikova and the head of the Department of New Acquisitions of the State Hermitage, candidate of Art History Marina Blyumin visited the Kabardino-Balkarian State University named after Kh.M. Berbekov on a working visit.
On September 6, at the cultural and educational center «Hermitage — Caucasus» of KBSU, art historians from St. Petersburg gave lectures to students of the university.
Natalia Kalashnikova spoke about the use of metal and glass decor in traditional costumes of the peoples of Eurasia, age codes in the costumes of the peoples of Russia and elements in the clothing of the peoples of Eurasia.
We came to Kabardino-Balkarian State University at the invitation of the director of the Hermitage-Caucasus center Albert Saralp. As a teacher, a professor at the St. Petersburg University, it was interesting for me to talk to KBSU students about a subject that I have been studying all my life — folk costume. I know with what reverence this issue is treated in the North Caucasus. But I wanted to tell the KBSU students that St. Petersburg residents also take care of traditional costumes. The Russian Ethnographic Museum of the Northern capital has a huge Caucasian collection. The costume emphasizes not only the appearance, but also the age and well-being of a person,
— commented the art historian of the Russian Ethnographic Museum.
With no less interest, the students listened to Marina Blumin’s lecture on the history of the formation of the Hermitage museum collection.
The children also enjoyed watching the film «Sport in Soviet Porcelain», shot for the exhibition by colleagues from the State Russian Museum.
The next day, September 7, a round table discussion entitled “The Caucasus in the 21st Century. Folk Costume in the Context of the Cultural Code: Traditions and Modernity” was held at the Madina Saralp Art Center.
In addition to guests from St. Petersburg, the participants in the dialogue included specialists from Kabardino-Balkaria, North Ossetia, Adygea, and Chechnya who study folk costume.
From the Kabardino-Balkarian State University named after Kh. M. Berbekov, the round table discussion was attended by Fatima Kanokova, deputy director of the Institute of Architecture, Construction, and Design, Alim Kanloyev, director of the College of Design, and Murat Umetov, head of the Department of Faculty Therapy at the Medical Academy.
Professor Svetlana Khashirova, vice-rector for Research at KBSU, addressed the audience with a welcoming speech:
The topic of preserving the cultural code through folk costumes, brought up for discussion, is very important. I hope that this event will develop so that we can truly pass on the existing values and traditions of our native culture to our future generations. I would like to wish everyone successful work, new interesting ideas in preserving national culture and spirituality.
Marina Blyumin spoke about the structure of museum collections in the State Hermitage Museum and the place of costume in the structure of museum funds.
Natalia Kalashnikova spoke about folk crafts and trades in the context of modern folklore and ethnographic festivals in Russia.
Fatima Kanokova, deputy director of the Institute of Architecture and Design at KBSU for Research, immersed the participants of the round table in the world of traditional Nogai costume through the prism of jewelry, in particular women’s pectoral jewelry.
The moderator of the meeting, PhD in Art History, Associate Professor of the Maikop State Technological University Nafiset Kidakoeva spoke about the features of the traditional costume of the Western Adyghe people of the late 19th — early 20th centuries, in particular about the original Adyghe girl’s caftan and its introduction into modern collections.
The surprise and delight of those present was caused by a collection of samples of embroidery of modern national patterns, used in catwalk costumes, which was brought by the designer of the FIRDAWS fashion house in Grozny, Selina Usmanova. As the designer noted, FIRDAWS has a school of fashion and design, where young people are taught the art of embroidery, and then other fashion houses select the best craftswomen.
Honored artist of the Republic of Adygea, teacher of the Adyghe Republican College of Arts named after U. Kh. Tkhabisimov Svetlana Shkhalakhova knows everything about the features of stage costume, forms of folk costume on stage.
Honored worker of culture of Russia and North Ossetia, director of the creative workshop for the production of national clothing Izolda Gogichaeva reported on her contribution to the preservation of traditional costume as a cultural code.
Doctor of Medical Sciences, professor Murat Umetov explained why the national costume of the Adyghe is part of the ethnocultural health code. The people of the North Caucasus had a cult of a thin waist. In both men’s and women’s clothing, it was emphasized by a belt, which has a sacred meaning. As was later confirmed it was due to medical indications, a thin waist helps to avoid cardiovascular and oncological diseases, as well as reproductive disorders.
At the end of the round table, the head of the art center, fashion designer Madina Saralp demonstrated how you can use a national print as a bright detail in your image and thus instantly indicate your cultural code.
Madina Saralp thanked all the participants for the interesting conversation and expressed hope for further communication and interaction.